Emain Macha — the royal seat of the sagas
Stand on the mound at Navan and you're standing on one of the most storied places in Ireland. In the old tales this is Emain Macha, said to be the capital of the Ulaid — the ancient kingdom of Ulster — and the royal seat of King Conchobar mac Nessa. Legend has it the place took its name from the goddess Macha, who, the story goes, was forced to race the king's horses while heavily pregnant and marked out the boundary of the fort with the pin of her brooch before collapsing.
Above all, Navan is the great stage of the Ulster Cycle — the body of medieval Irish literature that follows the heroes of Ulster and their most famous champion, Cú Chulainn. The sagas tell of Conchobar's warriors, the Red Branch Knights, gathered in his hall here; of the boy-hero Cú Chulainn taking up arms; and of the cattle-raid of Cooley, the Táin Bó Cúailnge, in which he holds the border of Ulster alone. To generations of storytellers, this hill was the beating heart of a heroic age.
The archaeology is just as remarkable. Beneath the grassy mound, excavations found the remains of a colossal timber structure — a roundhouse-like building around 40 metres across, with a great central oak post that has been dated by its tree-rings to about 95 BC. Archaeologists believe it was raised not to live in but as a kind of temple. In an extraordinary ritual act, the building was packed with stones, deliberately set alight and burned, and then sealed beneath a cairn and a layer of earth — the very mound that crowns the hill today. Whatever it meant to the people who did it, it was clearly an offering of huge significance.
Add in the wider landscape — the nearby ritual pool and the great earthworks of the Navan complex — and you have a place that mattered to people here for thousands of years. Walk the ring of the enclosure, feel the wind off the hill, and let the sagas fill it back in. Then wander next door to the centre, meet the Celts and hear the stories told. Get out and live a bit of the ancient world.