A Plantation castle, and the tale of the drowned fiddler
Castle Caldwell sits on a peninsula that Sir James Caldwell's family made their own for generations. The castle itself is said to date from around 1612, in the years of the Plantation of Ulster, when new landowners built strongholds across the north. Over the centuries it slipped into ruin, and today its ivy-clad walls and battlemented gateway stand among the trees — a romantic, weathered thing to walk up to, though fenced off now for safety.
The park's best-loved story is a sadder one, carved into a fiddle-shaped stone at the entrance. Legend has it that on a summer's day in 1770, a fiddler named Denis McCabe was hired to play for the Caldwells aboard a barge out on Lough Erne. The story goes that he had been warned off the drink and the water — and that, playing away on deck, he lost his footing, fell into the lough and drowned. Sir James is said to have raised the Fiddlestone in his memory, with a rhyming warning to other fiddlers to keep their playing to dry land. Whatever the truth of the tale, the stone still stands where visitors pass it today.
Now the whole peninsula is a Forestry NI park, given over to walkers, picnickers and — most of all — the birds. Its wooded shore and scatter of little islands form part of the Lower Lough Erne Nature Reserve, cared for with the RSPB, and it's reckoned to be among the finest places in Fermanagh to watch breeding waterbirds. Come for the walk, the ruins and the wide lough views, and leave the quiet corners to the wildlife that made this their own.